I’ve been remiss in not keeping up with my writing here. You’d think with all the wonderful wines I sampled during my two seminars at the Boston Wine Expo, the words would flow from my fingers onto these pages. But even with great notes and great experiences, writing, I find, is very hard work. And too often takes a back seat to work, chores, friends, and, hopefully, further wine adventures.
So I metaphorically pick up the pen again after an absence of almost three weeks (where DOES the time go?) and continue with the second flight presented in the “Taste the Terroir of Burgundy” seminar I attended at the Boston Wine Expo. The seminar had kicked off with a flight of four white Burgundies from the Chablis and Côte de Beaune regions of Burgundy. The next flight featured reds, and in this case four wines all from the same village, Chambolle-Musigny, in the Côte de Nuits region.
According to our host, Laurent Drouhin, this is one of the family’s favorite villages, with a range of vineyards, including both Premier Cru and Grand Cru that produce wines that are subtle and rich, without too many spicy notes. The four wines presented were, like the whites, all from the 2006 vintage.
2006 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle Musigny From vineyards classified as village vineyards (for a discussion of the differences between village, region, premier cru and grand cru classifications in Burgundy, see my post of January 25th). Fermented in open vats and matured in oak, with a limited use of new oak, the wine is bright and easily drinkable. The color is a bright, deep ruby-garnet. The nose is fruity with notes of black cherry and plum. Also, I immediately noticed the flinty “tang” that I find so often in Northeastern US reds. The soil in these vineyards have strong limestone content, similar to that of southern New England, and it comes through in the wine. In a seminar entitled “Tasting the Terroir,” it felt very satisfying to be able to make that connection.
In the mouth, the wine is bright, lightly dry with a somewhat chalky finish. The notes of black cherry and plum that I picked up in the nose are very subtle and the fruit is very much in the background. This would pair well with lighter meats, tuna or salmon, but would not stand up well to anything really spicy or peppery, or rich robust meats like roasts or steaks.
2006 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru This and the next wine in the flight were both from Premier Cru vineyards. This particular wine I found to have the strongest affinities with a southern New England red, and interesting observation because the Burgundies are all Pinot Noir, a grape we grow very little of here in the Northeast. What’s coming through the wines in both regions is the terroir, the mineral content, particularly limestone; these were the observations that really brought the seminar alive for me.
The color of this wine was a lovely bright burgundy red. The nose had notes of black cherry and the hallmark flintiness that I’ve been commenting on above. In the mouth, the wine is very bright with light notes of black cherry and stronger notes of damp earth. The finish is really nice, smooth with silky tannins. Laurent Drouhin recommended cellaring this for no more than 6-7 years. I personally thought it felt “young” that day – a little too bright – and may track down a couple of bottles to cellar for a few years and sample the difference. Perhaps we’ll see this wine featured in my 2015 Open That Bottle Night festivities.
2006 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle Musigny Amoureuses, Premier Cru Aged 25% in new oak, this was was very nice wine, and one of my favorites of the seminar. The color is a darker, more matte-finish burgundy than the previous wine. The nose is chalky and deeper, not as bright, than the previous two reds. The notes of cherry are still present, but they are much more discreet; the predominant notes in the nose are flinty, “tangy,” granite/limestone. Interestingly, in the mouth, the wine is fruitier and richer than the previous two, and overall the wine is more intense and complex. The wine lingers on the palate with a long finish with the black cherry fruit notes developing into a delicate earthy, granite finish. Only 240-250 cases of the Amoureuses were produced, and the wine can age for a long time.
2006 Joseph Drouhin Musigny, Grand Cru The last wine of the flight – and the seminar – was the Grand Cru. The color is a very dark ruby with a matte finish. The nose is very subtle, and interestingly, didn’t have the strong limestone/granite flintiness that I picked up in the other wines. We were also told that the inclusion of this in the seminar was a special treat, as it was only the 3rd or 4th time in 10 years, that Maison Joseph Drouhin had included the Grand Cru in the seminar.
In the mouth the wine was very intense; deep, rich, and complex, although not a “big” wine. Notes of black cherry were present here, as in the previous wines, although the wine is still young and the presence of the fruit was not fully developed. According to Laurent Drouhin the wine should be cellared for 10-30 years for optimal drinking.