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Muscat
Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer
In addition to being voted Best Connecticut Small Winery at the Big E competition, Connecticut Valley also won the distinction of being the Sisters of the Connecticut Wine Trail’s favorite winery. The whole group loved both the winery and the wines – and trust me, they are not an easy group to please!
The tasting menu starts off with the
Chardonnel A hybrid grape, the result of grafting Chardonnay and Seyval Blanc grapes together, the result is a lovely, crisp, refreshing white wine – one of my favorites across the Connecticut wine trail. Like all of the Connecticut Valley wines, the Chardonnel has only a light touch of oak. A pale yellow color with a soft, lightly fruity nose with notes of apricot and peach, the wine is soft and silky in the mouth with light notes of peach and bright citrus and a soft buttery finish. The Chardonnel would pair well with a wide variety of foods, but I prefer it on it’s own – lightly chilled, it’s a perfect wine to relax with at the end of the day.
Dolce Vita An estate-grown Cayuga White, Dolce Vita is proprietor Tony Ferraro’s favorite wine, according to his son, Jason, who was my host for my third and most recent tasting. The color is an extremely pale straw. The nose is soft and both fruity and floral with lovely notes of orange blossom. In the mouth the wine has subtle notes of pineapple and touches of melon. On my most recent visit, the gentleman next to me during the tasting said he was picking up watermelon. I took another sip and thought about it and could get just the barest hint of the watermelon he was experiencing, but for me the overall impression was that of pineapple. Regardless, it is a lovely wine.
The next three wines, the Specialty Wines, are all fruit-infused wines, and as Jason Ferraro described them “the dangerous wines.” First up is the
Just Peachy 75% Chardonnay and 25% Seyval Blanc infused with a peach essence, the result is a delightful, soft, eminently drinkable table wine. The color is a soft gold. The nose is soft and peachy, but not overpoweringly so. In the mouth, you realize at once this is not a fruit wine – the Chardonnay/Seyval base produces a dry, lightly oaked table wine and the peach essence provides a depth of fruit that blends beautifully with the notes already present in the grapes. The result is a delightful, not-sticky-sweet, wine that would pair well with spicy dishes, chinese and even pork.
Raspberry Delight Like the Just Peachy, the Raspberry Delight is a white table wine infused with raspberry essence. The result produces a very pink wine. The nose is soft raspberry; a more subtle nose than I had anticipated. In the mouth, the wine is also more subtle than I anticipated. There are strong raspberry notes, but rather than overpowering the wine, they produce a bright, crisp, tanginess at the start that smooths out to a lightly sweet finish. I definitely preferred the Just Peachy to the Raspberry Delight, but the Raspberry Delight has it’s charms.
Orange Delight This is vintner Jason Ferraro’s favorite wine, as well as one of my favorites, to my great surprise. I did not anticipate liking this as much as I did. As it was being poured and described, I expected the orange to be too strong a flavor, overpowering the wine altogether. I have never been so pleased to be proved wrong. A 50/50 combination of Orange Muscat and Vidal Blanc grapes, this is a semi-dry wine. Like the Dolce Vita, the color is a very pale straw. The nose is soft with strong notes of orange floral. In the mouth the orange, rather than being too sweet, has a slightly bitter/tart edge that balances the fruity sweetness and creates some depth and complexity in the wine that is really interesting. Overall it’s a very different wine, and not the kind of wine people will be on the fence about – you’ll either like or you won’t. Regional wine judges and critics do like it, and it’s won multiple medals in competitions, including a perfect score at the Fingerlakes Wine Competition. One judge liked it so much that after the competition, he called the Ferraros directly to tell them how much he loved the wine – now that’s a fan!
Connecticut Valley also produces two sparkling whites: the first a blend of chardonnel and cayuga and the second a spumanti produced from the orange muscat grapes. Like all sparkling wines, neither is included on the tasting menu, but I’ve promised myself I’d stop back and pick up a bottle of each.
Next up: The Reds, including the only wine in the Northeast allowed to bill itself as a Chianti.
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Gretchen Neuman
VinoVerve Editor
Located completely within the Columbia Valley AVA and within Benton and Yakima Counties, Rattlesnake Hills is a 16 mile long stretch of territory of basalt mountains. The AVA was created in 2006 but has been under cultivation since 1968 when the Morrison Vineyard was planted with Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling for Chateau St. Michelle. Currently there are nearly 30 vineyards in the area some of which can be found here
Grape varietals grown in the hills include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewürtztraminer, Malbec, Merlot, Muscat Canelli, Petite Sirah, Riesling, Semillion and Viognier.
The AVA is centered around Zillah, Washington. I am hoping given that I will be in Walla Walla which is relatively close by, that I will get to experience the hills for myself. I was especially relieved to learn that the name “rattlesnake” comes from the shape of the hills… and not for any reptilian invaders in the area. I am like Indiana Jones that way. I hate snakes.
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Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer
Newport Vineyards has an extensive menu of wines, 31 in total; one of the largest selections that I’ve seen yet from a Northeastern regional winery. The menu begins with 13 whites divided into four categories: dry, no-oak (2), dry, oaked (1), Alsatian Style (6), and the semi-dry (4), before moving into the Rosés (4), the Reds (8), the Dessert Wines, which include a Port and an Ice Wine (4), and finishing with a Brut sparkling wine and a hard apple cider.
A tasting, which runs $9, includes your choice of five wines and allows you to join one of the two daily tours of the winery (1 and 3 pm). Unfortunately, if you elect not to take the tour or arrive after the tours have finished for the day (as we did), the price still remains $9. Tastings of the Ice Wine and the Brut will run you an additional $1 each. Individual glasses of wine can be purchased for $6, although a handful of the premium wines run $8 per glass.
Christy and I took our time studying the menu and selecting our wines, while listening to our hosts explain ad nauseum to a group at the other end of the bar that tastings work best if you start with the whites and move on to the reds. I’m always amused, and often exasperated, by the people who don’t know what they’re doing – but desperately and often pretentiously pretend that they do. The winery staff had my sympathy that day; I can only imagine how frustrating it is to watch someone select a fuller-bodied wine like a cabernet franc as their first wine, follow it up with a light-bodied white, and then have to listen to them complain about how the “white tastes funny” – all the while keeping a polite smile on your face.
But eventually the group settled down, and our host wandered over to pour our tasting. I elected to begin with the one dry, oak-aged white, the
2007 Newport Chardonnay A nice wine, but not one that blew me away. The color is a very pale yellow, and the nose has light grassy notes with a very light touch of citrus. A light-bodied wine, in the mouth the flavors are light, clean and smooth with light sweet notes of pear and a touch of lemon on the finish. The citrus is crisp and balances the smoother, deeper flavors of the pear, and the oak provides a light toastiness. The tasting notes indicate this would pair well with grilled fish and poultry as well as light cheeses.
2008 Tranquility Next up for me was one of the Alsatian-style wines, a blend of gewurztraminer (34%), muscat ottonel (34%), pinot gris (22%), and riesling (10%). Like the Newport Chardonnay, Tranquility is also a pale yellow color. The nose is bright with lovely floral notes and a hint of sweetness from the muscat. A light-bodied wine, yet fuller than the Chardonnay, Tranquility is a soft dry-style wine with floral notes, low oak, and a touch of sweetness that provides depth and character. It’s an interesting wine and my favorite of the wines I tasted that afternoon. Tranquility is a gold medal winner for Best Vinifera Blend at the Atlantic Wine Competition.
2006 Rochambeau Named in honor of Jean-Baptiste Donatien de Vimeur, comte de Rochambeau, the French General who fought with George Washington and helped defeat the British at the Battle of Yorktown (1781), Newport Vineyard’s Rochambeau is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Landot Noir. Made in the Bordeaux-style, the wine is medium-bodied, bright and tangy. The nose has interesting notes of pepper and berries. In the mouth, the wine is young with a tangy “back” taste and strong berry notes, particularly on the finish. I tend to prefer stronger, deeper reds, but I was intrigued by this wine and will definitely be giving this another try on my next visit.
2007 Cabernet Franc I have become a real fan of Cabernet Franc, finding it one of the richest most satisfying reds produced here in the Northeast, and even when not touring local wineries am finding myself gravitating towards cabernet francs and zinfandels over my former favorites pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon. Newport Vineyards’ Cabernet Franc didn’t disappoint, but I didn’t find it as strong as the Cabernet Francs from Chamard or Gouveia. The color is a lovely jewel-tone medium garnet that subtly sparkles in the glass. The nose is deep and soft with light notes of earth and fruit and just a hint of spice. A medium-bodied wine, there are soft notes of fruit in the mouth – I detected dark berries and just a hint of cherry brightness. The finish is clean with lingering notes of pepper that give the wine an interesting character. Perhaps I had a tasting from a recently opened bottle, but I did feel that the wine needed to breathe longer to display it’s full potential.
2006 Newport Jazz I finished out the afternoon with a dessert wine, a Sauterne-style, late harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Despite my general fondness for dessert wines, this was my least favorite of the afternoon. A lovely dark gold color, the nose was rich and sweet and held a lot of promise that unfortunately the wine didn’t deliver. Surprisingly, in the mouth the wine was slightly dry with a sharp finish. The mouth feel had that silky smoothness that one expects from a dessert wine, but the balance was somehow just “off.” It may that I had a tasting from a bad bottle, so I will definitely give this another try before writing it off altogether.
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