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Coastal Wine Trail of Southeastern New England
Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer
I had intended to get this posted yesterday but, as usual, life intervened. Given my track record of late, though, 24 hours delay is rather timely…
I spent a lovely hour with Joe Sharry and six of his wines that beautiful Saturday afternoon. I had my choice of five of the 10 main wines, and then for an additional $2 each could add either of the limited production wines to my tasting. After careful perusal of the menu, I opted for 2 whites and 3 reds and Tom encouraged me to also try the red Cuvee, a suggestion I found impossible to resist.
My first selection was the Shelter Harbor Chardonnay. Pale gold color with a soft, lightly citrus nose. In the mouth, the wine is dry and buttery with soft tannins on the finish. The predominant note was grapefruit, but it was light and subtle. Served chilled, the wine is crisp and refreshing and would work well with seafood, grilled vegetable dishes, or on its own. A very nice wine.
My next choice was the Winnapaug White Merlot. I discovered white merlots a few years ago, and have become a real fan, generally preferring them to their red counterpart. I like the heartier character of the white merlot (as compared to Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc) and the often earthy character I find in them. I also don’t see a lot of them, at least not among local vintners, and so always make a point of trying them when I do. Langworthy Farm’s White Merlot didn’t wow me, but it also didn’t disappoint. It’s a pleasant wine, peachy in color with a pretty, slightly floral nose. In the mouth, however, the wine is more earthy with notes of grass and green pepper, and there’s a slight bitterness on the end that might soften with aging or perhaps more breathing time. The most interesting thing I found about the wine is that there were no dominant notes throughout – I found myself having to search for the individual notes. That’s not to say it had no flavor, just that no one note shone through.
With that I rinsed my glass and turned to the reds, bypassing Langworthy Farm’s two Merlots and heading straight to the Charlestown Cabernet Franc. Aged for 14 months in a combination of Frend and American oak, the result was one of my favorite of all the wines I tasted that morning. A lovely purple color with a soft nose with rich notes of cherry, the wine has is dry and earthy, with light notes of pepper and cherry and tobacco on the finish. In addition to the tobacco notes, the oak provides a light smokiness which I found very interesting. The Charlestown Cab Franc recently won a medal in the Finger Lakes Regional Wine Competition.
I know many people who aren’t fans of Cabernet Franc, finding the grape and the wines, pale imitators of their more robust Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir cousins. I, as regular readers of Vino Verve will attest, have become a big fan. Particularly here in the Northeast, the grapes seem to grow very well and produce some really nice, robust reds. Not as “big” as a California or European Cabernet Sauvignon, but strong enough to stand up to hearty foods and cold winter evenings. Langworthy Farm’s Cabernet Franc definitely made it into my collection of Cabernet Francs.
After the Cabernet Franc, I moved on to the Napatree Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for more than 12 months in French oak, the Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the better of it’s kind I’ve found among southern New England wineries. Like other local wineries, Langworthy Farms brings in their grapes from California; I’m sure it is no surprise to anyone that ours is not a climate conducive to growing Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is a lovely garnet color with a rich plummy nose. I really loved the nose on this wine. In the mouth the wine is very smooth; I was a bit surprised at how smooth, as so many of the “bigger” reds I’ve tried here in the northeast have felt “young.” The wine is lush and rich with strong earthy, grassy notes and notes of leather and smoke from the oak. I also detected light notes of blackberry which contributed to the overall richness of the wine. Very nice wine, and one of the better Cabernet Sauvignon’s I’ve had here in Southern New England.
I finished up the main tasting with the Pawcatuck River Red, a stainless-steel fermented blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Not a bad wine, and people who like slightly sweeter, lighter wines should really enjoy this. But I found it almost too clean, particularly coming after the Cabernet Franc and the Cabernet Sauvignon. I missed the smokiness and the earthiness I found in the other two wines. Garnet colored, with a fruity nose, the Pawcatuck River Red is a fruitier wine with strong notes of cherry and blackberry. The tasting notes indicate this would be great with pasta and salads, and for a lighter summer red it’s not bad. However, compared to the other two I found it to be not as complex and interesting. Perhaps if I had tasted that one first before either the Cab Franc or the Cab Sauvignon, I would have been more impressed. Still, despite my preference for the other wines, it’s a nice overall table wine, and I think more people will prefer this one to the Cabernet Franc.
Because I was the only guest that morning, I was able to chat with Joe throughout the tasting, learning about the history of the winery, the house/bed & breakfast, and the surrounding area. Because I usually can only hit the wine trail on the weekends, it’s not often that I have the luxury of having the winemaker all to myself. So at the end of the tasting, when Joe suggested I try to the Ward 3 Cuvee, his limited production red, I certainly wasn’t going to turn him down.
The Cuvee is a Bordeaux-blend of the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, and it was fascinating to taste this immediately after the Pawcatuck River Red, a blend of the same grapes. Darker in color, more of a dark garnet, with a strong earthy nose, this is a lovely wine. Both rich and subtle the flavors and notes of the wine blend together beautifully. The predominant notes are earthy, almost loamy. I detected notes of tobacco and leather, and the finish brings forth notes of warm spice, cumin among others. There are also very soft, subtle fruit notes that provide a depth and richness that opens up the earthiness beautifully. I also found the wine built over time – each subsequent taste layering on the previous one. A very impressive wine.
That concluded my tasting for the morning. There are an additional five wines, 3 whites and 2 reds, on the main tasting menu and a limited production Reserve Chardonnay that I did not have the opportunity to try. However, there is at least one winery in Southeastern Connecticut still on my list, so I think a return trip to Langworthy Farms to try the rest of the menu will be on the schedule soon.
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Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer
I know it’s been a while since I’ve had a chance to post anything; it’s also been a while since I’ve been able to hit the win(e)ding roads. I woke up the other day wondering where this summer – and all my plans – had gone to.
My last wine trip was about a month ago, a beautiful, warm, sunny Saturday. I’m still trying to finish the entire Connecticut wine trail, only 6 more to go, but as I looked at my maps that morning, I decided I’d take a short detour and head first into Westerley, Rhode Island and the Langworthy Farm Winery before turning back home and picking up one or two of the wineries I’ve yet to visit in the southeastern corner of my state.
Westerley, the home of the Langworthy Farm Winery, lies just over the Connecticut/Rhode Island border. While it’s the first winery on the Coastal Wine Trail of New England which runs through Rhode Island and Massachusetts and ends at the tip of Cape Cod, Langworthy is actually closer to the Stonington wineries, Jonathan Edwards, Stonington Vineyards, and Salterwater Farms vineyards, than it is to the Newport wineries that follow it on the Coastal Wine Trail. Because of their proximity, you could do an easy day combining two, three or four of the wineries that fall along the border.
My original plan when I left the house that morning was to start with Langworthy Farm Winery, loop back to Stonington for a visit to Saltwater Farm Winery, and then stop at Gales Ferry and the Holmberg Orchards and Winery on the way home. A touch of sunstroke (probably shouldn’t have sat on the porch at Langworthy as long as I did) and lunch that didn’t sit too well intervened, and I wound up skipping Holmberg Orchards, but not before sampling some very nice wines at both Langworthy and Saltwater.
Langworthy Farm, owned by Joe & Gail Sharry, is a small property about 1/2 a mile from the coastline and beaches on the homesite of Samuel Ward, one of the first governors of Rhode Island. The farm include a small vineyard, the winery and a bed and breakfast which is housed in a charming mid-19th-century Victorian farmhouse. The Sharry’s have lived in Rhode Island since 1993, first in the Providence area and then moving to Westerley in 1999, when they bought the Langworthy Farms property. They had been making wines for years and after successfully launching the Bed and Breakfast, decided to begin their own winery. They planted their first vines in 2002 and the winery opened to the public in 2005.
The winery and Tasting Room sits in a small cottage-like structure in the yard behind the main house. The Tasting Room itself is small but charming, with a few bistro-style bar tables and chairs and a long wine bar running along the back wall. Windows over the bar allow you to see through to the pressing and storage areas behind the tasting room.
To make up for the relatively small tasting room, the Sharrys have built a long deck running the length of the cottage with tables, chairs and lovely views of the vineyard and surrounding farms. The property is located on the corner of two fairly busy state roads, and while not an interstate, there is still a fair amount of traffic you’ll see and hear as you relax and enjoy the wines.
On that particular Saturday I arrived shortly after they opened, and pretty much had the place to myself. Joe Sharry was my host for the wine tasting, and we spent a very pleasant hour sampling wines, talking about the history of the property and surrounding area, and enjoying the sunshine. Langworthy Farms currently produces 12 wines, six whites and six reds, including a limited production Chardonnay and Bordeaux-blend red. A tasting will run you $6 and includes your choice of five of the 10 wines, with tastings of the limited production wines being an additional $2 each. I was by myself that day, so I didn’t have the luxury of splitting the tasting menu with a wine-trail buddy and sampling them all, so I settled on two whites and three reds, and Joe kindly added a tasting of the Ward 3 Cuvee, the limited production red, at the end of the tasting.
More on the wines themselves on Thursday…
Langworthy Farm Winery
308 Shore Road
Westerley, Rhode Island 02891
888-355-7083
langworthyfarm@cox.net
www.langworthyfarm.com
Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer
May 1st marks the official start of wine season here in Connecticut. The Connecticut Farm Wineries’ 2010 Passport program kicked off with the release of the new passports on Saturday. The passport includes pages for each Connecticut Farm Winery that is open to the public; as you visit each winery, have the corresponding page in the passport stamped. At the end of the season (early November), turn in your passport for a chance to win one of two 10-day trips to Europe.
While a few wineries won’t open until June or July, most of Connecticut’s 30 wineries are now open for the season, with many offering weekday as well as weekend hours. Several wineries are also gearing up for special spring events and festivals which can be a great kick-off for your own Win(e)ding Road adventures:
May 8-9: Barrel Tasting @ Sunset Meadow Vineyards, Goshen, CT
May 15-16: Barrel Tasting @ Hopkins Vineyards, New Preston, CT
May 15: Barrel Tasting @ Miranda Vineyards, Goshen, CT
June 5-6: Jonathan Edwards Winery Spring Festival, North Stonington, CT
June 19-20: Haight-Brown’s Festival on the Farm, Litchfield, CT
Outside of Connecticut, the Coastal Wine Trail of Southeastern New England, which includes 9 wineries and extends 170 miles along both the Rhode Island and Nantucket Sound, from the Rhode Island/Connecticut border up into Cape Code, launched their passport program in February, which will run until December 31st. Collect stamps from all 9 wineries and turn in your passport for a chance to win a Cruise to the Bahamas.
After stops at the final few wineries I’ve yet to visit in Connecticut, Rhode Island and the Coastal Wine Trail are next on the list. Coastline drives under blue skies, the lush greenery of ripening vineyards and farmlands, a chance to discover new wines, and seafood dinners in Cape Code or Newport – that’s what summer’s all about… Can’t wait!
Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer
I fell in love with Newport on the drive down to the waterfront. Our plan, if you can call the itinerary we hastily constructed over brunch a mere five hours before a plan, included spending the afternoon touring local wineries and then stopping in Newport for dinner on the waterfront. At the time all I knew of Newport was that it was seafront town with legendary mansions, the “summer cottages” built by the New York elite at the turn of the 20th century.
Newport was founded in 1639 by a group of eight men after a political falling out with Anne Hutchinson and her followers. The town was settled on the south side of Aquidneck Island, near the mouth of Narragansett Bay, and throughout the 17th and 18th century the town and its citizens grew prosperous from both the whaling industry and the slave trade. During the Revolutionary War, French troops under the command of General Rochambeau first landed in America at Newport, and the town served as the French base of operations for the duration of the war. Today you’ll still see references to Rochambeau throughout the area, and at least one vineyard, Newport Vineyards, has named a wine in his honor. By the mid-19th century the town was becoming a summer destination for wealthy Americans, including families like the Vanderbilts and the Astors who built the homes that today comprise the Newport Mansions Historic District.
As we drove in though, we weren’t thinking about the mansions, and the Newport we discovered is a charming seaside town with a shoreline shopping and restaurant district that manages to retain the flavor of its New England seaport past without being kitschy. The downtown waterfront area comprises one of three historic districts within Newport’s boundaries and includes one of the largest concentrations of colonial-era homes left in the country, a charming shopping district which runs along Thames street, and a wide variety of restaurants lining the waterfront.
We parked in one of the lots off of Thames Street and strolled down the brick-paved street, window shopping our way over to Bowen’s Wharf and The Landing restaurant. Dinner was excellent; we were able to snag seats on the upstairs porch with great views of the water and the “what felt like thousands of” sailboats moored in the harbor. For the life of me, I can’t remember what Christy had for dinner, but I haven’t forgotten the Lobster Mornay I ordered – delicious! – pasta baked in a rich cheese and cream sauce with nice big chunks of fresh lobster. Yum! We lingered over dinner, and as we walked back up Thames street to the car, we discovered that Newport also has a very vibrant nightlife with both bars and restaurants filled to capacity throughout downtown.
Facing a 2-2.5 hour drive home we decided to skip the bars, grab the car and drive past the mansions on our way out of town. What didn’t occur to us, but probably should have, is that they are all surrounded by tall (very tall) fences and hedges. Thinking about it now, I realize of course they have hedges – I’m sure the last thing the Vanderbilts came to Newport for was to mingle with the locals… What I later learned was that we would have done better if we had walked back to the car along the waterfront as that would have taken us past a large group of historic colonial-era homes. Not as opulent as the mansions, but equally interesting. Ah well, just another reason to go back…
What makes Newport noteworthy from a locapour-point-of-view is its location in the heart of the Southeastern New England AVA and the Coastal Wine Trail, making it the perfect base of operations for a long weekend exploring southern New England wine country by day while enjoying the town by night. The Coastal Wine Trail includes eight wineries stretching along the Rhode Island/Southern Massachusetts coastline from the Langworthy Farms Winery at the Connecticut/Rhode Island border to the Truro Winery on Cape Cod. But the remaining six wineries are all clustered in the general vicinity of Newport. And if that were not enough, each Fall the Preservation Society of Newport County hosts the Newport Mansions Wine & Food Festival, allowing you to experience everything Newport has to offer all in one place.
Newport is approximately 3.5 hours from New York, 90 minutes from Boston, and 2.5 hours from Hartford.
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Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer
I had to laugh at myself as I reached into the pile of notes taken during my Win(e)ding Road adventures over the past few months to pick the winery I’d feature in today’s post. When I first started on this journey, I was, at best, an occasional contributor, fearing I’d never have enough material to meet a regular posting schedule. Silly me… I currently have enough notes to produce posts through early December. And I still haven’t finished the entire Connecticut Wine Trail…
But the notes – and memory – I pulled out today take me back to that beautiful Saturday afternoon in early August when Christy and I took an impulsive road trip to Newport. We left late, having only decided on Newport over brunch, and as a result, we pulled into Sakonnet Vineyards with 30 seconds to spare before last call (the tasting room closes at 6, and the last round of tastings is at 5:30). If truth be told, we probably just missed last call, but the young lady at the register took pity on us and sold us two tastings just under the wire, for which we were cravenly grateful.
Sakonnet Vineyards, named after nearby Sakonnet River, was the first post-prohibition Rhode Island winery. Founded in 1975 by Jim & Lolly Mitchell, Sakonnet released their first vintage in 1976. The Mitchells later sold the vineyards and winery to New Yorkers Earl and Susan Samson, who have developed both the wines and the winery into a destination spot for Rhode Island wine. They currently have 50 acres under cultivation, growing Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Vidal Blanc and produce more than 30,000 cases annually. They sell many of their wines through the winery and will ship orders providing state laws permit direct-from-winery or out of state shipments. Sakonnet wines can also be found in package stores and on restaurant lists throughout Newport County and Rhode Island.
The winery and grounds are charming. The path up from the parking area takes you through a large grassy yard with modern-art sculptures set amid the trees and picnic tables. Wildflowers blanket the lawn in front of the winery, and bistro tables and chairs are set up under the trees in the front yard and on the back patio for guests who wish to relax and enjoy their wine outside.
The tasting room feels like a large, comfortable pub; a very large rectangular bar, which could easily hold 30+ people, dominates the room. A large wooden chalkboard sign hanging on the back wall serves as the price list, and the winery staff moves easily through the center of the bar area, pouring tastings or glasses of wine, clearing up, and chatting with the guests. In addition to tastings and wine sales, Sakonnet also conducts winery tours twice a day.
Because we arrived so late in the day - and thanks again to the staff member who took pity on us and sold us the last two tickets for that day’s tastings – we really didn’t have time to linger. We were given the tasting menu, which includes eight whites, five reds, and three dessert wines, and asked to select up to six wines. We’ve become old hands at coordinating selections, so it didn’t take us long to make our selections and between us we were able to sample ten of Sakonnet’s sixteen wines.
First up, the whites beginning with the 2008 Vidal Blanc…
Continues on Tuesday, October 27th.
Sakonnet Vineyards
162 West Main Road
Little Compton, Rhode Island 02387
1-800-91-wines
info@sakonnetwine.com
Hours: October – December 11:00 – 5:00, (last call 4:30) seven days a week. January – March, 11:00 – 5:00 Thursday-Sunday. On April 1st, they reopen seven days a week. Winery tours are conducted each day at noon and 3pm


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