winemaker

Gretchen Neuman
VinoVerve Editor

When last we saw VinoVerve we were enjoying a musical interlude at Whitman Cellars in Walla Walla…. Now that lunch is over the tour of the facilities begins. Enjoy part 1.

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Gretchen Neuman
VinoVerve Editor

Our next stop at the WBC’10 was to head to lunch at Whitman Cellars in Walla Walla. We listened to Gordy Vennari of Walla Walla Vintners and Stephen Lessard of Whitman Cellars.

Whitman Cellars
1015 West Pine Street
Walla Walla, WA 99362-1756
(509) 529-1142

Walla Walla Vintners
225 Vineyard Ln
Walla Walla, WA 99362-8404
(509) 525-4724

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Gretchen Neuman
VinoVerve Editor

Sadly, we have come to the end of our adventures at the Beresan Winery….

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Gretchen Neuman
VinoVerve Editor

Thanks to everyone for bearing with me as the day job continues to overwhelm me….

I am still working on producing my videos that I took at the Wine Bloggers’ Conference.

This video is of Thomas Glase of Balboa Winery as we tasted his spectacular wine, Mith. Cheers!

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Meeting all of the interesting people in the wine business is one of the best parts of working in this industry. As an Italian friend of mine said it the other night, throughout history wine has been a tool and metaphor for creating social unions. This holds true in my life quite often and in a variety of ways, though in this instance I refer to an event with Master Sommelier Richard Betts a few weeks ago.

Richard Betts lives in Aspen, Colorado where he not only presides over the wine program at the prestigious Little Nell, he also works the floor nightly at Montagna, the Nell’s fine restaurant. Richard Betts also makes wine under the ‘Betts and Scholl’ label in Australia, California, and the Nothern Rhone Valley in France. On October 10th I was lucky enough to attend a lunch event hosted by Richard and his local distributor Vintage Wines at Le Lan, a French Vietnamese fusion spot in the Chicago’s River West district.

Betts and Scholl is built on the concept that Richard Betts and his partner, Miami based art dealer Dennis Scholl, are not bound to any location, grapes, or style of wine because of legacy or proximity that limit the choices of what wines they can make. It is an ambitous project, involving travel to three continents to produce seven wines, though it seems to be for good measure; the wines are all excellent.

The first wine presented, and only non-Rhone varietal, was the 2006 Riesling from Eden Valley in Australia. Eden Valley, settled by German farmers in the nineteenth century, is a relatively cool area of Southern Australia that has a reputation for producing some of the finest Riesling in Australia. The vines are on average 50 years old and contribute to an expressive, yet balanced new world reisling. Though it is far from mainstream in this country, reisling is a sommelier favorite and I am not surprised that Richard Betts’ only Rhone departure is with that unique varietal.

From Eden Valley in Australia we travelled to Lyon, France and then south to the esteemed hill of Hermitage. Richard painted a vivid picture of late afternoon, driving south along the hill as the sun sets, vines beginning to fall under shade. The vines of Hermitage continue to recieve rays of sunshine until finally, hours later, the sun retreats. Perhaps that is why Hermitage is the undisputed prize of the Northern Rhone. In my experience, Hermitage is difficult to find and even harder to afford, and I am not embarrassed to say that I have little expereince with Hermitage Blanc or Rouge. Somehow Richard Betts was able to make both with help form Rhone legend J. L. Chave.

The Betts and Scholl Hermitage Blanc consists of Marsanne and Roussane grapes from four climats, or distinct vineyard areas, on the hill of Hermitage. In producing this particular wine Richard and the Chave family asked, “what else can the hill be?” Because of the low natural acidity of Marsanne and Roussane the key, according to Richard, is in controlling the glycerine, or has he put it, “grace over girth…It’s not what you wear, but how you wear it”. Achieving a wine with weight and ripeness is easy, but finding the elegance is not. No new wood, only foudre, a large neutral oak barrel, is used to develop the wine before bottling. What is in the glass is a pure expression of fruit from Hermitage, with butterscotch, pears and apples, hints of vanilla, luxurious texture and a pepper spice. Elegance achieved.

After the whites, Richard Betts tapped into a Master Sommelier bag of tricks by conducting a blind tasting of 5 wines, all Grenache, and in no particular order. The very experienced group of tasters in attendence quickly picked up that two of the wines stood out as new world expressions of the varietal, and, it just so happens, Betts and Scholl produces two different wines in Australia with Grenache. The ‘O.G.’and the ‘Chronique’, are both made from Barossa Grenache grown on sand. The difference between the two is that the latter comes form an 83 year old vineyard of very deep sand and exhibits increased intensity, ripeness of fruit, and caramel notes. Sand grown Grenache was the central theme of the blind excercise as the other wines, Pignan Rouge 2003, Brunel ‘les Cailloux’ 2004, and Henri Bonneau 1997 were classic expressions of sandy soil Grenache. Sand is not only famous for resisting the the spread of the infamous phyloxera louse, but also limits color extraction and focuses the “signature of the varietal”. I believe that Richard chose these wines as an homage, to display the benchmarks for sand grown Grenache and make a statement about the varietal character of Grenache, which he calls “warm weather Pinot Noir”.

Hermitage Rouge 2001 and 2004 from Betts and Scholl helped shift the gears from the white pepper, cherry, and orange zest of Grenache, to the blackberry, lavender, and black pepper of Syrah. Richard calls Hermitage “Syrah, appealling to the Pinot Noir sensibility”. I would like to see these wines again in 5-10 years as they seem a little unwilling at this stage, though it is unfair to consider such a classic expression and then move on to something called ‘Black Betty’, Betts and Scholl’s Australian Syrah aged in Bordeaux barrels. Black Betty lives up to the name (Bam Belam) as a wine of very deep extraction and intesity, displaying ripe black plum, blackberry, with and purple flower undertones. Because of Betty’s massive expression it was hard for me to believe that there was another wine that could follow. Though somehow the California Syrah did just that.

For the Betts and Scholl California Syrah, Richard Betts called on cult wine makers Deb and Randy Lewis for assistance. The resulting wine, half aged in used Chardonnay barrels, was laden with coffee, caramel, brown sugar, and black fruit. It felt like a decadent dessert though its richness and complexity were appropriately hedged by balanced acidity.

Richard and his wines were the draw that day and both delivered a good show. But the best part of the lunch was the collection of interesting people in attendence from MS Richard Betts, to nameless sommeliers from the Park Hyatt, the Peninsula, and Charlie Trotters. One notable that I will name is the inimitable scholar and professional, Bob Bansberg, the Dean of the University of Chicago Sommeliers. Through casual conversation at our table that day I found out that later that night Bob was to give a speech about Ernest Hemingway at the Hemingway Museum in Oak Park.
(see next post for bio of the amazing Bob Bansberg)

I ventured to Le Lan on the afternoon of October 10th to meet Richard Betts and taste the wines of Betts and Scholl. But the energy of the room that day, maybe an extension of Richard’s ‘hakuna matata’-like aura, took me to another place that highlighted all of the great things about being a wine professional in Chicago; Good food, great wine, interesting conversation, and a sense of community. While it is a real burden to make time for outside wine tastings, lunches, and dinners, certain events justify the sacrifice of time. A visit from Master Sommelier Richard Betts and the audience that he inspires make the sacrifice and effort pay off. Like my Italian friend said, wine is a tool for creating social unions. As a sommelier in a restaurant I see that phenomenon each night. As a member of a vibrant wine community here in Chicago I see that happen in more profound ways.

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If you are lucky enough to be invited to a dinner at NoMi showcasing the wines of Clarendon Hills, the iconic winery of South Australia’s McClaren Vale region, be prepared to drink world class wine. And if Clarendon Hills Owner/Winemaker Roman Bratasiuk is hosting the dinner, be prepared to witness world class chutzpah (Yiddish for arrogance). Roman might have you believe that he is the only winemaker to conquer brettanomyces, that there is no other Australian wine worth drinking, and that his palate is the best in the world. And yet, somehow, Roman Bratasiuk remains likable. Roman clearly likes to hear the sound of his own voice, which is generally tooting his proverbial horn, and diplomacy or polite consideration doesn’t figure into his character. Producing great wine however, does.

Roman Bratasiuk produced his first vintage in 1990 from the old vines (planted circa 1845) around the town of Clarendon Hills, about 25 miles south of Adelaide. A passion for high quality old world wines and the recognition of specific vineyard sites allowed Roman to craft the style for which he is now known. Twelve vineyards contribute to the sixteen single varietal wines made from Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The vines are dry farmed, hand pruned and picked, and produce very small quantities of intense fruit. The wines spend an average of 18 months on the lees in tight grained French Oak barrels that are selected by Roman himself. There is no filtering or fining. The resulting wines combine the purity and finesse of classic Old World wines, particularly those of the Northern Rhone, with the focus and intensity of the New World.

The dinner was a showcase of the 2004 vintage and the pairing menu was superb. Spice Braised Pork Belly accompanied Kangarilla Grenache and the Blewitt Springs Grenache. I am a self declared ‘Grenache Freak’ and Roman’s expressions of the Southern Rhone varietal is a benchmark for his region. Both wines displayed a youthful reluctance to show themselves, though there was an apparent difference; Kangarilla exhibited softer floral aromatics while Blewitt had a smoked meat, and overall more aggressive character. The food and wine pairing can be explained by one comment from another guest, “bacon fat with bacon fat”.

The next course included Brookman Merlot, Roman’s only wine of that variety, and the Sandown Cabernet accompanied by Pan Roasted Duck Breast with Marcona Almonds, Pickled “Alisa Craig” Onions, and Dried Apricots. The Brookman Merlot was remarkable in that it was the most developed wine of the night, balancing red fruit flavors with exotic spice and harmony between the ripeness and acidity. I like to think of developing wines like teenagers struggling to feel comfortable in their own skin. Brookman Merlot was way more comfortable than its counterparts that night.

Duo of Jamison Farms Lamb; Roasted lamb Loin and Pave of Lamb Shoulder, Ratatouille Nicoise, Thyme and Red Pepper Infused Jus, was the course that for a moment made forget that I was there for the wine. Liandra Syrah and Hickinbotham Syrah paired with that spectacular dish, elegant decadence paired with elegant decadence, and it was an experience that I am not soon to forget. Roman declared one of the bottles of Liandra as flawed, but once corrected the wines were similarly tight in their expression, though still suitable for drinking right now.

The ultimate of Roman Bratsiuk’s arsenal of great wines comes form Syrah from the Astralis vineyard, and on that night was served with a trio of cheeses. Astralis has a special character, no doubt about that. What differentiated Astralis from the pack to me was that, while its expression of fruit and intensity matched or surpasses the other wines present, its freshness and acidity was more pronounced. I made a comment regarding acidity in the Astralis to Roman, but like he had done to everyone all night, he shot me down.

The wines that night were fantastic, though I would like to have a repeat of that lineup in five years and see where the 2004 Clarendon Hills wines are after a little more time in bottle. I have recently tasted 1998 Astralis, and some of the other Clarendon wines that were closer to ten years from the vintage, and the wines were more complete, integrated, harmonious, expressive.

There are many characters in our beloved world of wine and Roman Bratasiuk is certainly one of them. The wines he makes are impeccable, some of the best I have ever tasted. Roman the man is interesting, funny, boorish, pompous, loud, honest, passionate, blunt, unforgiving, and stubborn. Recently I met another great Australian winemaker, David Powell of Torbreck, who was similarly direct. Is it an Aussie thing, I wonder? Though he can be difficult, Roman is a great wine personality, and I appreciate that. I liked the wines before meeting him and I still do. Roman Bratasiuk makes wines that I cherish, and highly recommend for cellaring for 5 to 10 years, maybe more.

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That is Billion with a “B”

According to the Canadian Press, wine sales are up almost 6 percent in Canada… our neighbors to the north consumed 387.7 million litres of wine. A third of that consumption came from Quebec and red wine was preferred overall, unless you live in the Maritime Provinces of Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Maybe because of their access to fresh seafood? Oh, and don’t worry about your association with Canada and beer… They still drink 2.2 BILLION liters.

Cocktails Anyone?

The Canadians are not the only people drinking beer. According to the consulting firm, Technomic, Inc., when out on the town, most of us are more likely to drink beer or cocktails. Unless we are out for business, romance or dining that is…

Wines of Mencia

The LA Times reports that the wines of Bierzo, Spain made with Mencia grapes are fast becoming the new darlings of the wine world. The wines tend to be high quality and affordable. The vines themselves were abandoned years ago after being originally brought to Spain in the 10^th century by French monks. Notable winemakers include: La Fararona Mencía, El Dorado, Descendientes de J. Palacios Corullón, Dominio de Tares, Paixar, Pago de Valdoneje, Cuatro Pasos and Luna Beberide.

How Do I Get That Kind of Job?

The McClatchy Newspapers report that the Wine Institute received $4.5 million from the Department of Agriculture’s Market Access Program to subsidize or outright pay for foreign journalists to travel to and enjoy California (mainly) wineries…

And She is Left-Handed Too!

For those of you that like skin… and not just the grape type, The National Post’s Shinan Govani, writes about his interview with Savanna Samson. Samson, a two time winner of Adult Video News Award for best actress is also a winemaker. Her wine, Songo Uno, received ratings of 90-91 from Robert Parker.

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Sommeliers and wine buyers from top restaurants in Chicago are hard to assemble. The restaurant business, an unforgiving mother, likes to keep its children occupied. Yet certain trade events are a guaranteed draw to the dedicated wine professionals that toil because of an undying work ethic, limitless passion, and an unquenchable thirst for knowledge. To that extent, October has been a very good month.

It started for me on October 1st, when I had the good fortune to attend a dinner with Roman Bratasuik, owner/winemaker for Clarendon Hills at NoMi. The private dining room at NoMi, by the way, is the premier venue for intimate wine dinners/lunches and I have attended at least four spectacular events there.

October 8th was the highly anticipated walk-around tasting of the year as Chicago Wine Merchants presented Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne.

On October 10th Master Sommelier Richard Betts was in Chicago and hosted a trade lunch at Le Lan to feature his Betts and Scholl wines.

And tomorrow, October 23rd, will be an event organized by esteemed Master of Wine Serena Sutcliffe that is called Young Lions of Winemaking-Legends of the Future. This event will feature 11 of the top young winemakers to discuss the direction of the industry and the challenges to come. I am already fortunate enough to have met two of these Young Lions, Marco Caprai of Arnaldo Caprai, a top Sagrantino producer, and Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon of Champagne Louis Roederer. Young Lions should be a great opportunity to participate in the discussion that revolves around wine with the core of the wine community, the producers.

I like October for a lot of reasons, from World Series baseball to Halloween candy and pumpkin pie. But this October has been special because of the great wine events that I have attended and shared with my colleagues, wine pros from top restaurants and hotels like Gabriel’s, NoMi/Park Hyatt, Avenues/Peninsula, and Charlie Trotter’s. I believe that the people who do what we do, serving the Chicago dining community, can justify all the hard work and long hours because it affords certain rewards. One of those great rewards is access to the winemakers, their wines and the stories behind the wines. There are always tastings and events going on in town for a wine buyer to attend, but rarely are so many great events held in succession as they have been this month. More detail to come regarding the wines and specific events that I mentioned above…

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