Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer

I’ve probably mentioned before that I know many people who won’t even try dessert wines, saying “I don’t like sweet wines.”  I was one of those people for a long time, then I tried Ice Wine and realized that dessert, late harvest and ice wines are a different breed.  Richer and more decadent, the sweetness in a good dessert wine is never cloying, and only enhances the depth and character of the wine.  There are definitely examples of not-so-good dessert wines, but the benefit of a tasting is that you can try many without having to commit to the price of full bottles.  And when you do find a good one, it’s heaven.

Priam produces two excellent Dessert Wines, the Essence of St. Croix and a Late Harvest Riesling.  Both are available on the tasting menu for an additional fee, and I strongly recommend adding them both to your tasting.  

Essence of St. Croix is the 2005 Vineyard Reserve St. Croix pressing.  It’s fashioned as a port-style wine, and aged for two years in oak barrels which help provide the depth, richness and smokiness that give this wine so much character.  The nose has strong notes of spice and smoke and a touch of cherry.  In the mouth, the wine is rich and deep with notes of cherry and blackberry that provide the sweetness one expects of dessert wines.   This was hands-down my favorite wine of the tasting.  This would pair exceptionally well with strong cheeses, perhaps even more so than it would with a sweet dessert.  As with amost all of Priam’s wines, the Essense of St. Croix is a multiple-award winner, garnering A silver Medal in the 2007 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competition and Bronze Medals in the 2008 and 2002 Amenti Del Vio Internaitonal Wine Competions, and the 2006 Amenti Del Vino-Eastern States Wine Competition and the 2003 International Eastern Wine Competition.

The last wine on the menu that day was the 

Late Harvest Riesling Gary Crump, owner and winemaker, mentioned the Late Harvest Riesling is one of their favorites.  Slightly drier than the Essence of St. Croix, the Riesling has lovely notes of honey, peach and pear in both the nose and the mouth.  A nice level of acidity lends a crispness to the wine which nicely balances the sweetness.  I did like this wine, but not as much as the Essence of St. Croix, which I found to have a bit more depth and character.  But both wines are excellent, and the Late Harvest Riesling would be lovely paired with fruit desserts or paired with chilled cheese and fruit on a hot summer evening.   The Riesling won Gold Medals in the 2008 and 2003 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competitions, a Silver Medal in the 2006 Amenti Del Vino-Eastern States Wine Competition and Bronze Medals in the 2008 and 207 International Eastern Wine Competitions and the 2004 and 2007 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competitions.

With that, I ordered a few bottles shipped off to Gretchen and Kevin and grabbed a Westchester Red and a Salmon River White to take home for myself, said my farewells and headed back up Route 2 towards home.

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Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer

As I rinsed out my glass – and my palate – before embarking on the Red portion of the Tasting Menu, I was joined by a small group who had stopped by for a tasting and a young couple who wanted to pick up a couple bottles of local wine for a dinner they were hosting later that week.  Each time the door opened, the newest arrivals were greeted warmly by both the staff and the “regulars,” and it quickly became a very comfortable group with conversations veering in and out of each group: I continued my tasting with occasional discussion of individual wines with Gary Crump (owner and winemaker); the young couple asked for recommendations and then stayed to chat about vacations and travel, and Gary pulled out pictures of his recent trip to Mexico, and the other group began their tasting with comments about the wines being shared between the various groups as they progressed.  Outside may have been cold, gray and rainy, but inside everyone was relaxed, comfortable and generally having a great afternoon.

Priam Vineyards produces one Rosé, the Blackledge Rosé.  Normally, I include Rosés in with the list of White wines, but I accidentally overlooked it in my notes when I was typing up my comments about the Whites.  So we’ll start here.

A couple years ago, Gary Crump was approached by the Backus Hospital Breast Cancer Center, who asked him if he’d consider creating a wine to benefit Breast Cancer research.  Gary was up for the challenge, and decided on a Rosé for the pink color.  The result is the Blackledge Rosé, a light-bodied, off-dry Rosé with lovely notes of Rasbperry in both the nose and mouth.   15% of each purchase (not profits – 15% of the actual purchase price) is donated to the Backus Hospital Breast Cancer Survivor’s Fund; because of this Priam offers no discounts on this wine.

The Blackledge is the only Rosé Priam produces, so from there we moved on to the Reds:

Westchester Red A blend of Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon, Merlot, and St. Croix grapes, this is a semi-sweet, medium-bodied red table wine.   Barrel-aged for two years, the nose has a nice smokiness that blends nicely with the fruit overtones.  On the palate I detected notes of cherry and chocolate, although the chocolate is subtle, smoothing out the wine rather than overpowering it, and the wine finishes with detectable notes of black pepper.  Despite being a semi-sweet wine, and sweeter than I prefer for a red, I found myself starring this wine on my tasting menu and taking a bottle home.  I opened it the other day, and found it paired very nicely the pasta I was serving that evening.  One thing I noted is that I didn’t let it breathe long enough – I poured the first glass about 15 minutes after opening, and I probably should have let it breathe for at least half an hour, and possibly a bit longer.  The tasting notes indicate it could also be allowed to age another 2 years before drinking.  The Westchester Red is a Silver Medal winner in the 2008 International Eastern Wine Competition and the 2008 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competition, and a Bronze Medal in the 2002 Amenti Del Vino International Competition.

Salmon River Red The Tasting Notes describe this as a “Bordeaux-style” blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon.  It is a medium-bodied wine with a lovely deep garnet color.  The nose has a strong, sweet fruit nose – quite lovely.  I detected notes of fruit, possibly blackberry, in the mouth, and there are distinct smoky notes from the oak.  The finish has a bit of a bite, and I suspect the wine would benefit from additional aging.  Barrel aged for 20 months, the wine can age an additional 3-5 years.  While I didn’t purchase a bottle that day, the next time I’m in the Colchester area, I plan on stopping by and picking up a bottle or two to cellar for a few years.  Another multiple award-winner, the Salmon River Red won a Gold Medal in the 2003 Amenti Del Vino International Competition and Silver Medals from both the 2003 and 2004 International Eastern Wine Competition.

St. Croix – PV The Reds concluded with the St. Croix, a medium-bodied red from 100% St. Croix grapes, the wine has lovely notes of cherry and blackberry in both the nose and the mouth.  Aged for two-years in the barrel, there is a rich, but not overpowering, smokiness to the nose that helps give depth to the fruit notes.  On the palate, the wine is smooth, with distinct notes of cherry, and a light spice finish.  The tasting notes indicate that the St. Croix can be aged an additional 4+ years, and while it’s definitely an interesting wine to drink now, I think it will grow more complex and interesting as it ages.  The St. Croix won a Gold Medal in the 2006 Amenti Del Vino International Competition, and a Gold/Double Gold in the 2006 Amenti Del Vino/Big E wine Competition.  It is also a Silver Medal Winner in both the 2004 and 2005 Amenti Del Vino International  Wine Competition and the 2004 Dolce-Best of CT competition and a Bronze Medal Winner in the 2004 International Eastern Wine Competition.

The St. Croix was the final of the table wines on the tasting menu, and we took a short break, cleansed palates and glasses and proceeded to the Reserve Tastings and Dessert Wines.

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Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer

The Whites finished with the Gewurztraminer, a Gold Medal Winner in the 2004 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competition, and a Bronze Medal Winner in the 2005 International Eastern Wine Competition and the 2008 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competition.

As the wine was being poured, I was told this was the 2007 vintage.  The color was a pale yellow, and the nose was very light – and I mean very light.   On the palate, the wine was also light with a mineraly finish.  There were very faint notes of citrus, but overall the wine had no real depth.  I was told the wine was “coming along,” but all in all I was disappointed – and, I must admit, surprised.  While I definitely had my preferences among the wines I had tasted so far, they were all interesting wines with character.

When I expressed my comments, I was rewarded with a somewhat smug grin and a second pouring – this time it was the 2008 vintage, which had just been bottled that week.  A slightly deeper yellow that caught the light nicely, this wine had a much fruitier nose.  And upon sipping I found myself grinning as well – this is much more what I expected from a Gewurztraminer.  Much deeper, richer and smoother than the ‘07, there were lovely notes of pear and hints of citrus, and a light mineral finish.  

One of the great joys of Win(e)ding Roads for me is when I stumble across contrasts like this – or the Jeremy River White/Blackledge White contrast.  Experiencing the difference between two vintages, or two similar wines with slightly different formulas, or the dry and sweet versions of the same wine.  Fascinating and heady stuff…

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Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer

Priam has an extensive tasting menu, with 12 of their 14 wines available, and a choice of glasses – for $6.50 the tasting is presented in a standard white wine tasting glass; for $8.50 the tasting is “upgraded” to a larger, rounder tasting glass, reminiscent of a “pinot noir” glass.  Both are inscribed with the Priam Vineyards logo, and the glass goes home with you at the end of the tasting as they “don’t do dishes.”

The tasting menu begins with the 

Cayuga A light-yellow, dry white wine, with similarities to a light pinot grigio.  The nose is lovely with strong fruit notes; I particularly noticed tart notes of green apple.  The wine is light and crisp with citrus and a touch of pear; the pear balancing the citrus and adding just a hint of sweetness which keeps the wine from being tart, and the tasting notes indicate it’s best drunk within the first year.  The Cayuga has won several medals including a Bronze Medal in the 2006 Amenti Del Vino-Eastern States Wine Competition, a Bronze Medal in both the 2005 & 2006 International Eastern Wine Competition, and a Gold Medal in the 2004 International Eastern Wine Competition.

Salmon River White Named for the Salmon River, which flows through the area and nearby Salmon River State Forest, this is the first wine produced commercially by Priam.  The tasting notes describe this as an “off-dry Chardonnay,” and while I found it sweeter than I normally prefer, it still was an interesting wine.   A blend of chardonnay, riesling and muscat grapes, the color is a pale yellow-gold which catches the light nicely.  Barrel-fermented, the oak provides a nice smokiness to both the nose and the mouth, which balances nicely with the citrus notes.  The Salmon River White is also a multiple award winner, garnering Silver Medals at the 2006 Amenti Del Vino/Big E Wine Competition and the Amenti Del Vino International Compeitition, Bronze Medals at the 2004 Amenti Del Vino International Competition and the 2006 International Eastern Wine Competition and a Gold Medal at the 2001 Amenti Del Vino International Competition.

Jeremy River White Named for another local river which feeds into the larger Salmon River, the Jeremy River White is a Riesling blend, the same blend as the Blackledge White but with a different yeast and lower temperature .  The Jeremy River is a semi-sweet wine with notes of pineapple and citrus both on the nose and in the mouth.  While interesting, I found this wine a bit too sweet for my tastes; however, those who prefer sweeter wines should find this a very nice wine.

Blackledge White A blend of Riesling and Cayuga grapes, this was my favorite of the Priam whites.  The same blend as the Jeremy River White, this is a dry, fuller-bodied wine.  The nose is deep and fruity, and in the mouth I detected the pineapple mentioned in the tasting notes.  But the real surprise – and delight – of the Blackledge White is the butterscotch finish.  Rich, smooth, with just a hint of sweetness, it’s a wonderful finish.  It’s also an interesting contrast when sampled back-to-back with the Jeremy River White.  A Bronze Medal Winner in the 2007 International Eastern Wine Competition, this wine also is best within the first year.

Riesling I believe I’ve mentioned in other posts that I am not generally a fan of Rieslings – I find them too sweet and often too light for my taste.  However, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the Rieslings I’ve found on the Connecticut Wine Trail.  Generally, they tend to be drier, and the Priam Riesling is no exception.  A dry wine with a nice balance of fruit notes, including apple and citrus, and a slight mineral finish at the end make this an interesting wine.  The Riesling won a Gold Medal in the 2004 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competition, a Silver Medal in the 2004 International Eastern Wine Competition, and Bronze Medals in the 2008 Amenti Del Vino International Wine Competition and 2005 International Eastern Wine Competition.

The last wine among the Whites was the Gewurztraminer, which included a tasting of both the 2007 and 2008 vintage, an interesting enough an exercise to warrant it’s own post…

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Marguerite Barrett
Contributing Writer

After leaving Gouveia, I headed over to Colchester and Priam Vineyards; unfortunately, I made the mistake of Mapquesting my directions and sending them to my Onstar account before I left.  Unlike the Litchfield Hills area of the Western Connecticut Trail, which is pretty much all county roads, Eastern Connecticut has several major throughways: I-91 running north-south, I-95 running east-west along the Long Island Shore, and Route 2 and I-395 which cut somewhat diagonally through the middle of the region.  Mapquest, as I often forget, defaults to “shortest time” – which in eastern Connecticut usually means backtracking along the interestates, as I did that Sunday.  Blithely following the directions beamed into my car, I didn’t clue into what was happening until I had gone far enough north on I-91 that it no longer made sense to turn around.  

So I wound up heading back north about 25 miles, turning off onto Route 2 just before reaching Hartford and making my way southeast again towards Colchester.  One of these days I will learn to either a). read a map again, so I don’t always rely on my GPS directions, or b). remember to program the GPS for shortest distance, not shortest time.  Yes, I may have arrived more quickly, but part of the joy of the Win(e)ding Roads adventures is the exploration of new places and towns, something you miss when you’re flying down an interstate at 65 mph.  

I eventually arrived at Priam Vineyards, but only 10 minutes sooner than if I had taken the “direct” route.  Like Gouveia, Priam is easily accessible from the highway, being a quick two miles down Route 149 after exiting Route 2.  The vineyard is set back on a side road, Shailor Hill Road, and when the trees and shrubs are in full bloom, the area will feel secluded and private – as if you’ve found your own private retreat.

The Tasting room is in the style of the old New England “red barns” and is built into the hillside near the front of the property.   A large veranda with chairs and tables for outdoor seating dominates one side of the building, and despite the rain that was falling pretty steadily when I arrived, it was still a lovely area. I imagine it’s a great place to relax and unwind on a summer evening.  I could definitely become addicted to spending lazy summer evenings at local wineries, enjoying the tastes, smells and sounds of summer in the “country” while viewing the stars shining in the clear night sky.

Inside, the tasting room area is U-shaped and dominated by the bar extending the length of the room; along the walls were photographs from Priam’s current exhibition of portrait photography, “Sit Down,” by local artist Jack McConnell.  While there are no bar stools, it’s still a comfortable area, and when I arrived, I was greeted by both the staff and several “locals” who were there to hang out for the afternoon.  Soon after I started my tasting, Gary Crump, the owner and winemaker, came out from the back to help pour the tastings and regale us with stories of the winery and his recent trip to Mexico (complete with pictures).  Gary is a great host and really adds to the casual, friendly atmosphere.

The winery opened to the public in 2003 and currently produces 14 wines: 7 whites, 1 rosé, 4 reds, and 2 reserve/dessert wines (a port-style wine and a late harvest riesling).  All of their wines are award winners in both regional and international competitions, and many of their wines have won multiple awards.  

Priam produces about 5,000 cases a year, and while you can find Priam wines in a small number of package stores in the Southeastern Connecticut area, 90% of their distribution is direct from the winery.  Gary confirmed that they will ship to every state which allows direct-from-winery shipments, and you can order wines directly through their website.

In addition to the wines, Priam is also a working farm, and every year, July through October, Priam hosts a Sunday afternoon farmer’s market featuring local produce, organic eggs, and local cheeses and baked goods.  Other special events include private guided tours, summer barbecues co-hosted by Priam and Vito’s by the Park, and lunch and dinner deliveries from local restaurants, so you can enjoy a meal with your wine out on the veranda.

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